Saturday, July 30, 2005

Good Job, London Cops


Captured!

I don't know if it's just the lure of James Bond, but doesn't it seem that the London cops have done a superb job rounding up the young Islamic terrorists who have been raising hell in the city? Great job, guys and girls of the London cop brigade. You have made Ian Fleming proud.

**************************

Educated second-generation Muslims are finding their way to an extreme form of Islam spreading not through mosques but through Islamic bookshops, the Internet and university societies, said Roger Ballard, an anthropologist in Manchester who specializes in Pakistani Muslims in Britain.

British Inquiry Shifts Away From Foreign Aid for Plots (July 31, 2005) The form is called Salafism, taking its name from the term for the Prophet Muhammad's companions, although its adherents often reject any label. It originated in 19th-century Saudi Arabia, and has helped inspire groups like the Muslim Brotherhood and Al Qaeda.

The Salafi demand for purity and rejection of any Islam except that of the early years can lead to deep intolerance even for other Muslims like Shiites. Salafis see politics as embedded in the DNA of Islam. They take to heart the injunction that the ummah - the global community of Muslims -is "like one body": if one part is suffering, the rest will be in pain as well. They believe, therefore, in an obligation to physical jihad, or struggle, under the right conditions.

For educated young European Muslims who learned nothing of their own history in school, Salafism is a natural fit, Mr. Ballard said. It provides unequivocal answers. And, he said, it is largely "do it yourself."

Thursday, July 28, 2005

Wild Nigerian Hyenas - Debt Collection Dogs or Circus Animals?


Wild Hyenas

I had long thought that the wild Nigerian hyenas as posted on various websites over the years were trained animals used for the collection of debts, but a new story today via Boing Boing claims the animals are used in a traveling circus.

Abdullahi Amadu was 15 years old when he joined his father's business in a little town called Mullumpashi in Katsina State, Nigeria. Following in his father's footsteps meant that he needed his own hyena. After all, that's how his family made a living: they worked as entertainers - accompanied by hyenas, snakes and monkeys - and sold the fetishes and herbal medicines that are popular in Nigeria.

Abdullahi leant how to go to the caves and bushes of Bauchi, Yola, Plateau and Taraba States in central and northern Nigeria. At the entrance to the dark tunnels leading to the caves where a hyena lived, Abdullahi and his partners would blow in a whiff of traditional African tranquilizer, a powdery substance which intoxicates the animal and renders it senseless.

Next, they'd use a powerful torch to find their way through the tunnel and then drag the dazed animal from its hideout. Sometimes, the powerful light from the hyena's eyes would damage the bulb of the torch, but Abdullahi would still have his way.

"To be successful when hunting for hyenas and other dangerous animals," Abdullahi, 32, says, "we arm ourselves with various types of fetish charms, amulets and the tranquilizer. We also use hunting dogs to sniff out the hyenas' hideouts."

Abdullahi is one of a group of 10 entertainers who crisscross Nigeria with three hyenas, two rock pythons and four monkeys. In February 2005, they were staying in a ramshackle three-bedroomed apartment in Dei Dei Junction, a suburb of Abuja, the Nigerian capital. The animals were housed in specially constructed boxes.

Every member of the party had sores and scars on their faces, legs and hands - legacies of times when the animals suddenly turned hostile and pounced on their handlers with their teeth, fingers and claws.

"We use a heavy stick to hit the hyenas on the head when they misbehave," Abdullahi says. "We knock them down on the ground. All of us hold the sticks in case the animals become aggressive."

But one member of the group of animal handlers is six-year-old 'Mummy' Abdullahi, Abdullahi's daughter, and she plays with the various animals without showing any signs of fear. She even rides a hyena as if it were a miniature, slope-shouldered pony.

"She cannot be harmed," Abdullahi says. "It's the same thing with the snakes and monkeys. She has partaken of a potion of traditional herbs and has been bathed with it. So her safety from the animals is guaranteed for the rest of her life."

Most handlers of hyenas (and other animals such as goats and cows) make use of magic, voodoo herbs, juju concoctions, powders, amulets and esoteric incantations to train their captives - as well as build up their own confidence. The animal handlers also believe that human beings are capable of transforming themselves into animals such as hyenas, hence the need for powerful voodoo charms and incantations to protect themselves from harm. And then sometimes, especially when they haven't been fed on time, the hyenas turn aggressive and the charms and amulets are used as back-ups to the heavy sticks.

Charms and amulets are also placed into 'akayau', metal rings tied around the handlers' ankles that are meant to enhance their dancing skills. Also an important part of the troupe are drummers Nura Garuba, Abdulkarim Lawal and Sanusi Ahmed. But according to Abdullahi, tending to the animals is a tradition exclusive to his family. Non-family members are not admitted into the group or taught the secret of how to trap and take care of the creatures.

The animals are good for business: the family has sold traditional potions and charms for years, but trade increased dramatically after the acquisition of the hyenas and other creatures. "We parade the animals on the streets," Mallam Manteri, the owner of a 13-year-old hyena nicknamed Mainasara says. "They can be very funny and the public showers them with money."

Galadima Ahmadu, who controls a hyena nicknamed Jamis, explains that the handlers wear 'bante' dress and charms. "If we give onlookers the charms, they can play with the animals as well and they won't be harmed," he says. The concoctions sold to the public are meant to protect against snake, hyena or monkey bites, while the charms and amulets shield people from the antics of witches and wizards, which the majority of Nigerians believe are responsible for their misfortunes.


Story with Photos

Memories of China


China Earthquake 1976

What are your worst memories of China? A few old hands remember, link courtesy of The Peking Duck.

Talk Talk China

Architecture Notes


Burj Dubai Now Under Construction

Russia Tower due 2010

Moscow Highrise Overview at Empor

Cop Corruption in Jakarta


Bugils Cafe Party Invite

Everybody knows that most cops in Asia are corrupt and that their lousy pay is often supplemented with additional income from speeding drivers, brothel owners, and those who operate illegal gambling parlors. I've been pulled over a few times in Southeast Asia, and shaken down by the cops, who cheerfully accept a bribe in lieu of a ticket. Happens all the time, to everybody. No wonder most people in Asia hate the cops, who are just short of an organized mafia racket designed to terrorize the population. Bali cops are the worst, in my humble opinion.

A story today in the Jakarta Post about cop corruption in the Big Durian. I've got the congratulate the Jakarta Post, which has been running some very honest and revealing stories lately. It probably won't last, but let's enjoy this breath of fresh air while it lasts.

Officers lose money in antigambling drive
The Jakarta Post
Abdul Khalik
July 29, 2005


Owners of gambling dens have clearly been hurt financially in the recent drive against gambling in Jakarta, but many police officers have also lost money as a result of the campaign.

Awang (not his real name), 45, an illegal lottery (togel) boss who controls South Jakarta, said he could no longer afford to give money to police officers because he had ordered his men to close down all operations until the antigambling drive blew over.

"Usually, I gave Rp 500,000 to each officer who visited me every week, while my men in the neighborhoods gave Rp 50,000 a day to patrol officers. It seemed like I was giving money to every police officer in South Jakarta," Awang told The Jakarta Post on Wednesday.

Awang speculated that even larger sums of money were paid to high-ranking officers by the owners of large gambling den. A recent report claimed at least 14 provincial police chiefs were involved in protecting gambling operations. Fearing arrest during the police campaign against gambling, Awang has halted all his togel activities, along with his payments to police officers, for the past three weeks.

National Police chief Gen. Sutanto announced on July 11 a one-week deadline for provincial police chiefs to eradicate gambling in their respective areas. He warned that dismissal or even criminal charges awaited those chiefs who failed to comply with the order.

Jakarta Police chief Insp. Gen. Firman Gani quickly ordered his top officers, precinct and subprecinct chiefs to end all gambling in the capital within three days, with the threat that failure would result in them being relieved of their duties.

The Jakarta Police have arrested over 500 suspected gambler and gambling operators. However, there have been complaints that none of the major gambling dens have been raided and no major gambling bosses arrested.

Police also recently confiscated thousands of gambling machines from 16 gambling dens in the capital. "All of the other big bosses have stopped their operations and have also stopped giving money to the police. We will see what happens in the next two or three months. Right now, we do not have the budget to feed police," Awang said.

A credible police source at Jakarta Police Headquarters said many officers were beginning to grumble about the money they were losing during the antigambling campaign. "Many officers, especially in the Mobile Brigade and the general crimes and traffic units, are looking for other sources of income to make up for the money they are losing from gambling," the source told the Post.

The police announced last week that they would launch a one-month traffic compliance campaign aimed at punishing traffic regulation violators. Some observers suggested the campaign was introduced simply to give police officers the opportunity to collect money from traffic violators. Firman denied these suggestions and insisted the campaign was an effort by the police to make the streets of the capital safer.

The Irrawaddy


A Wackin' Great Cheroot

News about Myanmar (Burma) is fairly light in the mainstream press, so you need to head over to specialized websites to get some insight into one of the world's most terrorized countries. Why in the world did ASEAN ever allow this rogue state into their membership, and they can thanks their lucky stars that the homicidal generals who rape the country have nicely decided not to chair ASEAN during the next year. And why does Shinawatra and Thailand continue to kiss their ass? Could it be that sweet telecommunications deal that Prime Minister Shinawatra signed with the blood dripping generals last years. Yes, money triumphs over all.

Your best source for current news and updates, and generally interesting stories about Myanmar is a website called The Irrawaddy, produced in Chiang Mai by a collection of Burmese refugees and professional Western journalists who contribute their talents to this highly entertaining website. Entertaining? Yes, they cover the more grim aspects of political repression in the country, but they also travel around the country and look into the forgotten nooks and crannies of one of the most unusual and fascinating nations in the world.

The Irrawaddy

The Long Necked Women of Paduang in Thailand

A Casino Wild West Town in Northern Burma

The Deserted Museums of Rangoon

Cat Photos and Housekeeping


Letsbefriends.blogspot.com

letsbefriends.blogspot.com||

I confess I have a soft spot in my heart for photos of cats and kittens, and these were recently sent to me by my travel writer friend, Marael, from her home base in Del Mar near San Diego. Thanks Marael.

You may have noticed that I've changed the title of this blog from FriskoDude to Carl Parkes -- FriskoDude. When I first started this blog over a year ago, I thought it was important to remain somewhat anonymous, but I no longer feel that way. And instead of using the proper spelling of FriscoDude, I changed it to FriskoDude just to be somewhat unique. What was I thinking? In any event, my name is Carl Parkes and I'm going to slowly jettison the silly FriskoDude over the coming months. There is no reason to hide behind an invented name on the internet, since everybody knows your name.

I've also updated my blogroll over on the right side of the page, so you can see what blogs and newsites I enjoy visiting on almost a daily basis. If you've got a Asian blog, do check my listing and see if I've got your web address correct. If I've made a mistake, do let me know. Also, I'm always looking for new blogs and websites having to do with Southeast Asia, travel and photography, so if you find something really cool, please pass along the link.

I'm trying to change the format of my blog and can't quite figure out the solution, so if you are a Blogger/Blogspot user, and know your stuff, perhaps you can help me out. How do I increase the size of the font in the body, and go to sans serif? I've read the help sections, but they go on and on about using CSS in my template, which doesn't seem to be there. My other blog about the Travails of Travel Writing seems to be OK, but this blog has too small type and I'm sick of the serifs. If anyone has an ideas, do send them along via my email address listed in the top right corner of this blog. Thanks.

And I've got more cute cat pics from Marael! Coming up soon!

Carl

Wednesday, July 27, 2005

Will Corby Go Free?


Reefer Madness Poster

You all remember the case last year of a young Australian girl who was nabbed at the Denpasar airport in Bali with some 4 kilos of pot stashed inside her surfboard bag. She claimed innocence but was convicted by the panel of 3 judges, and given 20 years in prison. It was a fairly unbelievable case and very hard to believe that Corby was stupid enough to so blatantly smuggle pot into a country with extremely tough drug laws.

Today it was reported that an Australian convicted felon has confessed that the marijuana was intended for him and that he was supposed to pick up the delivery at the Sydney airport. There is some doubt as to his reliability, but he has agreed to testify next week via satellite connection from Australia that Corby is innocent and he's the intended target. He wants immunity from prosecution, and he will need to convince the Indonesian court of his story, but this might be the break Corby has been hoping for since her conviction. Let's all keep our fingers crossed.

I'd be shot if I went to Bali
The Daily Telegraph
By LUKE McILVEEN
July 28, 2005


THIS is the first picture of the man who says he owns the drugs which landed Schapelle Corby in jail. William Wayne Miller was revealed 24 hours after his bombshell promise to testify that the 28-year-old is innocent.

He is viewed by the Corby legal team as the star witness that can win her freedom. Miller told The Daily Telegraph last night he was still willing to testify on her behalf so long as authorities granted him immunity from prosecution.

He said he would not travel to Bali. "I'm not going to Bali, I would be shot. If I'm going to give evidence it would be by satellite video."


Read the Rest

Tuesday, July 26, 2005

Mega Bridge Bangkok


Mega Bridge Bangkok

I'm not exactly sure what to say about this bridge across the Chao Phraya river in southern Bangkok, but it's certainly one of the wonders of the world in terms of aspiration technology. Ron Morris at 2Bangkok.com has been posting photos of this amazing endeavor for several months, but I haven't been collecting them, but rather catching my breath with every photo posted on his website. The bridge opened last year in the south of France (Millau) wins awards for elegance and style, but this dream bridge in Bangkok will win kudos for guts and vision -- an amazing quest for civil engineering supremacy.

Mega Bridge Stuff from Ron

Hotel Chatter


Victoria's Secret China

I agree with you. Most, nearly all, travel websites having to do with airline reservations or hotel bookings are boring, boring, boring. Seems like the authors of these sites have had their brains removed and pickled in brine. Where is the humor guys? How can you possibly get serious about something as functional and mudane as hotel reservations or airline bookings?

But then a few weirdos sneak into the corporate pack and somehow both inform and entertain their readers. Hotel Chatter is one of them. A rather mundane title, but the somewhat deranged folks who pen this site have their priorities straight: entertain first, sell later. Anyone who quotes both Defamer and Page Six in the same story is OK with me. Good work. Look at their post today:

More from the Roosevelt Hotel Tropicana
Courtesy of Page Six via Defamer:


On Friday, Willis was at a cabana in the Tropicana at the Roosevelt Hotel in L.A. with 20 pals when the subject turned to pickup lines. Willis looked at a woman, a sophomore in college, and said, "What are your plans for sex tonight?" But Willis' lawyer, Marty Singer, said, "Bruce was joking around with some friends and talking about pickup lines. One remembered an old pickup line [Willis] used to use. The friend said the line and Bruce may have repeated it, but he was not trying to pick up the woman." Still, the woman was "grossed out" and left the cabana.

We love how Bruce can't even drop a lame-ass pick up line without his lawyer in tote to clear the air. Nice move old man.

Hotel Chatter is a Hoot

1995


Bill Gates Mug Shot

Netscape Founders 1995

What were you doing in 1995? I was a struggling travel writer who had just heard about Mosaic and then Netscape, and a new source of information from something called the internet. What? I wandered down to the public library here in San Francisco and fired up one of their computers, got on the net, and eventually found my way to The Bangkok Post. This is a newspaper I had happily paid $2.50 at my local Thai grocery store on Geary Blvd. near my house on Jordan Ave. for many years, to get the latest word about happenings in the Land of Smiles.

And here it was, for free on the internet. I was totally blown away. But my old computer (Tandy Radio Shack TRS-80 or "Trash 80" running on CPM) had no modem and could never connect, so the next day I went over to a local computer supplier in the Mission district and picked up a state-art box with all the bells and whistles. Only cost me $2500, but it seemed entirely, completely necessary to get online immediately. I downloaded Netscape 1.0 and it was off to the races.

1995: What They Were Thinking


10 Years That Changed the World
A Decade of Genius and Madness


1995: Marc Andreessen
1996: Jerry Yang
1997: Jeff Bezos
1998: David Boies
1999: Pets.com sock puppet
2000: Shawn Fanning
2001: Mary Meeker
2002: Steve Jobs
2003: Howard Dean
2004-05: Ana Marie Cox

The Whiz Kid - Marc Andreessen: "It's a lot more fun in retrospect. Startups are stressful, and Netscape was no different. The funny thing is, back then we thought the horse had already left the barn. Netscape's ­predecessor, Mosaic, already had 1 million users. We thought the market might be saturated. Even as late as '95, the Net was populated by early adopters, defense contractors, techies, and academics. It was completely unclear whether it would spread beyond that to consumers and business users. People still thought interactive TV would rule the world."

Timeline: 1995

Jan: The chair that launched a thousand bad business models: Herman Miller's Aeron seats the Valley.

March: Jerry Yang and David Filo incorporate Yet Another Hierarchical Officious Oracle (Yahoo!) and raise $2 million in funding from Sequoia Capital.

April: San Francisco's Candlestick Park becomes 3Com Park, or "Stupid-Name Park" as it's called by local radio broadcasters.

July: "Earth's biggest bookstore" goes live. Founder Jeff Bezos drives Amazon orders to the post office in his '87 Chevy Blazer.

Aug: Microsoft introduces Windows 95 and gives away crappy new browser Internet Explorer 1.0.

Jibe ho! Reportedly needing money to buy a boat, Netscape cofounder Jim Clark takes the company public, inciting the Web revolution.

Oct: 45 percent of Americans have heard of "the World Wide Web."

Dec: AltaVista gets off the ground with 16 million indexed pages, making it the Web's largest search engine. Ten years later, Google indexes 8 billion pages.

Wired

Spongmonkeys


Looking for my Leopard

Ninja Still

Winners

Spongmonkeys sell Quiznos Subs

Spongmonkeys

Tallest Buildings in the World


Top 4 Skyscrapers

I'd like to point out something fairly obvious. Take a look at the above diagram of the 4 tallest buildings in the world. Which structure seems to be the tallest? Right. It's the Sears Tower in Chicago. But for some insane reason, the good folks who decide such things, think it's OK to include spires and antennas in the calculation. So you put up a highrise that doesn't quite make the Guinness Book of World Records, but you put up a spire to outdo the competition, and then you call yourself the tallest building the world? Horse hockey. Petronas is a spectacular building, and Taipei 101 looks like a stack of Chinese take-out boxes, but Sears Tower remains the tallest building in the world, in my humble opinion.

But times are perhaps changing as plans are announced of a new building to be constructed (perhaps) in Chicago that will be taller than the Sears Tower, assuming they don't cheat with phony spires and antennas. Here's the story.

Top U.S. Skyscraper Proposed in Chicago

CHICAGO - A proposal to build a new 115-story building by 2009 could give Chicago claim to having the first and second tallest skyscrapers in the country. The 2,000-foot tower, proposed by Chicago developer Christopher Carley and designed by noted architect Santiago Calatrava, would go up along the city's lakefront near Navy Pier, northeast of the Loop.

The 110-floor Sears Tower is currently the nation's tallest building. Carley's building, minus its spire, would be 1,458 feet high — taller than the Sears Tower by eight feet. No financing for what would be a hotel and condo tower has yet been arranged and some rival developers say the proposal does not seem feasible.

If it is ever completed, the skyscraper would also surpass the height of New York's planned Freedom Tower, which would be 1,362 feet tall, plus a spire to stretch it to 1,776 feet. The Freedom Tower is expected to be completed in 2010.

The world's tallest building is currently the 1,670-foot Taipei 101 in Taiwan.

The proposed Chicago skyscraper, designed in a twisting shape like an enormous drill bit, is designed by the Spanish-born architect and engineer who designed the Milwaukee Art Museum addition and the Athens Olympic sports complex. No financing for what would be a hotel and condo tower has yet been arranged, said Carley, the chairman of Fordham Co. The new building would be called the Fordham Spire.

Construction would not begin until there are sales agreements for about 40 percent of its units, Carley said. He said he'd like to break ground in March and complete the building in four years. Some rival developers say the proposal does not seem feasible and they express skepticism that the Fordham Spire will ever be built.

Developer Donald Trump, who is constructing a 92-floor, 1,360-foot skyscraper in Chicago for luxury condominium buyers, said Carley's proposed building would not be economically viable in the post-Sept. 11 climate. "Nobody is going to want to live in a building that's a target," he told the Chicago Sun-Times. Carley countered that his skyscraper is in the same league as Trump's.

"I wonder where the insanity limit is. It must be just over 1,360 feet," he said, referring to Trump's building. Carley also said his project's association with such a highly acclaimed architect as Calatrava would help, because "financiers are in awe of this man."

City officials in Chicago sounded guarded. "We saw the plan and we'll consider it," said Connie Buscemi, a spokeswoman for the city's Department of Planning and Development.


Links at Bottom of the Story

The Idiocy of Thai Newspaper Editorials


Thai Newspaper Editorial Director

The sheer stupidity of Thai newspaper editorials is sometimes just breathtaking. Most editorials remain under the radar of the English language press as few Western journalists can read Thai, but translations are often provided at 2Bangkok.com, courtesy of Ron Morris, and occasional translations at the Bangkok Post. Today, the Post provides a translation of an editorial from Siam Rath, one of the country's leading Thai language publication, about the ongoing water shortage which has crippled the Eastern Seaboard.

What to do? Thailand is a tropical country with a monsoon season for five months, during which tons and tons of water comes down from the heavens. There is no logical reason why Thailand should find itself short on water. This is a country buried under water for five months each year, and all they need to do is capture the water and save it for the dry season. Like, uh, more dams.

This editorial from Siam Rath finally gets to the real solution of the water shortage problem: Thailand needs more rain. Idiots.

Water resources must be managed

Siam Rath Editorial, July 23 _ With rapid population growth and greater water consumption by households, farmers and industries, it is not difficult to understand why we are facing a water crisis.

Thailand's main source of water is the seasonal monsoon. There are no problems when the rains come on time and give enough water for farming and human consumption. If the rainy season is short, as was the case last year, national reservoirs are not replenished, resulting in water shortage during the dry season.

The ritual goes on, and will get worse if we do not try to solve the problem systematically. Water levels in the reservoirs behind major dams and in small catchment areas throughout the country are now very low and may reach critical levels without sufficient rainfall.

Water management is needed because demand has grown substantially during the past two decades, thanks to the population growth, agricultural expansion and industrial development. Rice farmers now plant two crops a year, instead of one as in the past. Adding to this is the pollution of national waterways as well as logging and slash-and-burn agriculture in highland watershed areas.

There are now five billion cubic metres of water behind Bhumibol and Sirikit dams. The government plans to use two billion cubic metres of it for human consumption, one billion for blocking seawater from flowing upstream from the Gulf of Thailand, and another two billion for agriculture. We need more rainwater to replenish these big reservoirs, and those in other parts of the country where big agricultural and industrial areas are located. Without good planning and efficient water usage, we may face a real crisis this time

Cleanliness? In Bangkok?


Street Vendors Welcome Tourists

It never fails to amaze me that the filth and pollution in Bangkok doesn't kill thousands of people each year. The city is a mess. Garbage is thrown around the streets, piles of refuse build up, dogs scavenge through rotting food and bags of junk casually tossed on the sidewalk, flys and bugs buzz around most food stalls, vendors spit and toss their unwanted scraps into the gutter. It's amazing that tourist don't die in substantial numbers due to the mess that is Bangkok.

Most of the food stalls in Bangkok sell food that is well cooked and that probably kills most of the germs, but the lack of sensible sanitation and personal responsibility is just appalling. And the Bangkok city government does little or nothing to enforce any sanitation laws, and the locals don't seem to care, and so the scandalous mess just goes on and on. A letter today in the Bangkok Post:

I have lived in Thailand for nearly 20 years and have never written to Postbag or its equivalent in other newspapers in Thailand. However, George Layton's July 23 letter titled "Street cuisine and cleanliness", struck a chord with me and I feel compelled to add to his comments.

I live on Sathorn Soi 11, also known as Saint Louis 3, and work in the Mahaesak-Silom area. Two events in the last year or so have convinced me that street food is probably dangerous. On my street there are food stalls lining both sides of the road from Sathorn to Chan road. Along the entire length of the road there are precisely two public garbage cans placed right next to each other. They are rarely full as the owners of restaurants and food stalls in the area prefer to throw their food waste onto the ground or bag it up in 7-Eleven shopping bags and leave them on the side of the road.

Every day these bags are piled up in spots all along Saint Louis 3, baking in the sun. They stink and leak a putrid green liquid into the gutters. This liquid pools up and gets smeared across the road, leaving a horrible smell even after the bags have been carted away. The bags are all collected at night and dumped in front of one of the many 7-Eleven stores in my area. The garbage is then sorted and loaded into yellow trucks. After they leave there is residue and spilled garbage strewn everywhere.

Amazingly, there is a food stall right next to where this takes place. Every night I watch in amazement as people sit in and amongst the garbage and stench while eating their food.

Nobody seems to notice or care.

One morning I was walking down Saint Louis 3. A motorcycle was going down the street between the curb and line of cars stuck in traffic. The bike ran straight through one of the pools of green liquid. His rear tire kicked up a fine spray and I saw this spray squirt upwards and fall back down settling onto the food being prepared for waiting customers. Again, nobody seemed to notice or care.

Off Mahaesak road is a food stall that has operated for years and is a very popular lunch spot for Thai office workers in the area. Every night for the last several years the local garbage collectors pile up a huge amount of garbage right next to this stall. The pile leans right onto the stall and I have seen rats climbing through the garbage and all over this food stall, urinating here and there. Repeated complaints by local shop owners to city authorities have fallen on deaf ears. Hanging on this food stall is some sort of certificate. I have not had a close look at it, but I sure hope it is not a certificate of approval from the health department.

ELIOT CLINE

Monday, July 25, 2005

Moscow Rising


Moscow Highrise 2007

Moscow to join tallest tower club
BBC News
July 25, 2005


German architects designed the state-of-the-art complex.

A Chinese construction firm has signed a deal to build an 87-storey tower in Moscow, which the developers say will be the tallest in Europe. A Turkish firm - Ant Yapi - is already building the foundations for the $530m (£305m) Federation Complex.

The tower will soar to 340 metres (1,115 feet), attached to a stiletto-like central spire. There will be a neighbouring 53-storey tower. The complex will house offices, luxury flats, a hotel and leisure facilities

Read the Rest

Sunday, July 24, 2005

Corruption Story from Jakarta


Cruise Ship Close Call

Riding the Corruption Express
Jakarta Post
July 25, 2005
Blontank Poer


Indonesia has been listed as one of the world's most corrupt countries, a label that the experience I will share with you will corroborate.

Graft cases adorn the front pages of the print media almost every day. Unfortunately, corruption on the train has not attracted much of the media's attention, although this practice could endanger hundreds of train passengers. For just Rp 2,000 you can ask to be dropped of at the train station of your choosing. One piece of advice, though. Never let the engineer know you are a "novice".

I had a unique experience with this small form of graft on May 23, when I took the Pakuan express train that plies the Gambir-Bogor route. It happened 38 days before the fatal train crash near the Pasar Minggu railway station when three electric trains collided into one another. I have a suspicion that the lead train in this crash, which was reportedly stationary at the time of the incident, was dropping off some passengers -- not at the right station, mind you.

At the time I was planning to attend a rehearsal for the play Sobrat at WS Rendra's Bengkel Teater in Cipayung, Depok. Dudi, a friend of mine and a member of the drama group, suggested that I get off the train at Citayam station and then take a motorcycle taxi to the theater.

I saw several passengers knocking on the door separating the passengers from the train driver. Very quickly they were let into the engineer's compartment. I learned they wanted to exit the train before Gambir. I tried knocking on the door myself, hoping to get dropped at Citayam. "May I come in, sir?" I said to the conductor, who, instead of replying, hurriedly closed the door. All I could do was watch Citayam station get farther and farther away.

With nothing to lose, I fell into line behind three passengers approaching the engineer's compartment. I saw them fish out some money from their pockets. "How much?" I asked. One of them replied, "Only two thousand."

This time I did not bother to ask if I could come in. I knocked on the door and hurried in when it opened. I shoved two Rp 1,000 banknotes into the hand of the man who opened the door, who wore the uniform of an employee of the communications ministry. He asked me where I wanted to stop.

"We cannot stop right at the station. It is not allowed," he said.

The train stopped about 500 meters before the Manggarai station and I got off.

Walking along the railway track, I heaved a heavy sigh: "For the sake of a few Rp 1,000 banknotes, the engineer is more than ready to bring the train to a halt in the middle of the track." And the possibility of a train collision suddenly struck me.

Corruption is not the sole domain of white-collar workers. Even train crews have a few tricks to make a little extra money using the tools at their disposal, in this case a locomotive.

Riding the Corruption Express

Expat@Large & Buffet Rage


Expat at Large in Love

You'll be Toast!
Things E@L Hates: # 451(d)


You go to a fancy hotel in an exotic location, say Bangkok. You’d expect the people staying there to be fancy too, right? For them to be sophisticated world travellers. For them to know the right things to do, to have full use of their faculties.

Well then, how come they don’t know how a breakfast buffet works?

Take the toaster.

What do these people do around the toaster? They congregate, looking vague, looking lost. They block the aisle leading to the yoghurt and fruit.

One man picks up some bread WITH HIS FINGERS, examines it, puts it back as if he is not satisfied, then picks up another two slices and places them onto the toaster’s little rotating gizmo.

“What are you going to do with that bread?” asks E@L .

“What?” he replies, looking confused, looking trapped.

“That bread. You touched it and put it back,” explains E@L .

“What?” he asks again.

E@L takes the tongs, picks up the slices the man had touched and throws them to the side away from the bread tray. “This bread, you are not supposed to touch it with your freaking hands.”

Fucking savages, he mumbles under his breath.

************

Two little old English ladies in printed dresses block the approach to the toaster. They are waiting for their slices to come out. They have put them in for a second round, the first had only warmed the bread. Call this toast? they had asked each other.

They hold the tongs, preventing other people from getting their breakfast. There are plenty of available slots in the toaster gizmo. Other people could be warming their bread too.

E@L slips his Glock from its holster, puts a bullet into the chamber and with his arms extended, raises it to the little old ladies’ heads.

“Put DOWN the tongs! Step AWAY from the toaster.”

They smile their lost, cute English-village, uncomprehending smiles and continue to hover at the toaster. After 20 seconds of failing to comply their mauve hair and brains splatter the croissants and Danish pastries as E@L fires the clipload of bullets into them. He declips, loads another and let’s go with several more into their still quivering torsos.

A little girl standing behind E@L looks at the bodies, the holes in their chests. “Nice grouping,” she says.

Obviously a Texan.

E@L (grouping joke from Chuck Woww.)


Expat@Large in Bangkok

Saturday, July 23, 2005

An Unconventional Visit to Kanchanaburi


Tiger Temple Thailand

Richard may be the head guru over at famed blog Thai-Blog, but running a close second is Stephan from Suphanburi. As with Richard in Samut Prakan, Stephan is an English teacher who toils away in the somewhat isolated town of Suphanburi, about 100 km northwest of Bangkok. And sometimes Stephan gets bored with life and work in the Town with No Farangs, so he takes the dreaded ordinary non a/c red bus down to the historic town of Kanchanaburi, home to the Bridge over the River Kwai.

His report today covers some of the more unusual sights around town, his encounters with drunken tourists and prospective expats, and musings on how to pick a guesthouse and not lose your hearing. Good stuff, Stephan!

Kanchanaburi has more than it's fair share of tourist attractions including a few museums, a couple of wartime graveyards, a few shady rickshaw drivers and a bridge. There are also a few more attractions with absolutely nothing to do with the second world war and one of them is the 'Terrifying Tiger Temple'.

Just a few years back, one of the province's temples decided to look after a sick tiger and when it was seen that this feline was bringing the temple some attraction a few more tigers were brought in to boost tourist arrivals. Only after a few Farangs were seriously maimed and almost killed by a couple of the temple's hungry tigers was the temple forced to implement safety procedures and hang up a sign outside which read something like 'Enter at your own risk. The temple takes no responsibility if one of the tigers has an attitude problem and springs for your throat'.

Then, until a few years back, if tigers weren't your taste and you preferred a more tranquil sight, Kanchanaburi had it's own 'Floating Nun'. For an entrance fee of just 20 baht the tourist could view one of the temple's nuns who spent her afternoons miraculously floating while meditating on the temple's lake or whatever you want to call it. She passed away a while ago but a disciple of hers is apparently keeping the 'floating fad going'. Once upon a time Kanchanaburi was also home to Thailand's most popular monk a handsome 'Phra Yintra' or something like that. But after it was discovered by the country's media that he had fathered a couple of children and spent his guest-trips to Australia boggeying away in Sydney's discos rather than meditating at the temples he fled the scene for his own safety and now resides in cozy California.

When you are tired of visiting the sights of 'Kan' or anywhere else one can just do what I did a while back and get into some conversation with a few of the frivolous Farang ex-pats. I have to disclose a little secret of mine and that is I enjoy playing the 'Dumb Farang' at times ie. I can't be bothered telling any of the expats or local Thais working with the tourists that I've been living here for goodness knows how long and able to speak the Thai lingo. So, this time in Kanchanaburi I got chatting away to a couple of the expats there who proudly afforded me an insight into their triumphant business ventures in the province. Of course, they thought I had just arrived in Thailand as an ignorant traveller and so they enjoyed completely exaggerating their knowledge of the Thai language, people, culture and ways. I couldn't help but laugh under my breath at one of them who was sure his idea for a 'Turkey Farm' was great business in the province. "All the Thais will be eating my turkeys within three years". Sure, man!


Read the Rest

Limo Drivers Terrorize Phuket


Average Phuket Limo Driver

Phuket Airport is located at the far northwestern corner of the island, while all of the popular tourist beaches are located toward the southwestern corner of Phuket, some 20 km from the airport and impossible to reach without the use of hired transportation such as a taxi or "limo." There are no public buses from the airport and the taxi stand is NOT located inside the airport terminal, but rather some 50 meters outside in a parking lot. Few tourists even know about this taxi stand and even fewer want to walk under the blazing sun to reach the designated taxi hire.

Transportation from the Phuket Airport to tourist beaches such as Patong, Karon, Kata, and others is only possible with a "limo mafia" which has controlled the franchise for several decades, and largely overcharged tourists, who have complained in droves to the TAT and local Phuket government.

These are NOT real "limos" in the classic sense, but just slightly more luxurious taxis of Japanese origins. Same size, same seats, same a/c. But far more expensive. About double the price of a metered taxi. And somehow the limo mafia has successfully limited the number of taxis outside at the taxi stand to just 30.

The limo mafia owns and operates a monopoly and has always resisted any efforts for the expansion of the taxi fleet or even permission for the taxis to have a taxi stand inside the airport. How have they done this over the years? You don't possibly think corruption and payoffs might be involved?

Limo protest delays improved airport taxi service

PHUKET CITY: A protest by about 100 airport limousine drivers at Provincial Hall yesterday morning successfully delayed the setting up of a taxi counter in the airport terminal.

It also prevented the number of meter taxis serving the airport from being increased from 30 to 70 with effect from next Monday (July 25).

“The Phuket Taxi Meter counter is currently 50 meters from the terminal, but Governor Udomsak Uswarangkura wants it moved to inside the terminal without [taxi drivers] paying for a concession,” explained Manod Chusak, who runs the limousine counters at Phuket International Airport (PIA).

“At the same time, he wants taxis to have counters set up at every beach on Phuket,” K. Manod added.

He also explained that the Governor, who is due to return from an inspection tour of Turkey and Romania tomorrow, had given his support for the number of taxis serving the airport to be increased from 30 to 70 from Monday, and later boosted to 270.

Weera Kearpanich, Chairman of the Airport Limousine and Business Service Cooperative Ltd, said, “We currently operate four counters at the airport, and this year we are paying more than 1 million baht a month for the concession [for the right to operate a limousine service at the airport].”

K. Manod explained that the concession fee had been increased each year, from 905,267 baht a month in 2003 to 995,794 baht a month in 2004. On top of the rising fees, K. Manod said, limousine drivers were already suffering from the greatly reduced number of tourists on the island following the tsunami.

“Limousine drivers are currently getting four to six fares between the airport and Phuket City or Patong each day. Before the tsunami the daily average was about eight to 10 fares. If taxis set up a counter in the terminal, limousine drivers will have even fewer passengers,” K. Manod said, admitting that tourists prefer to use meter taxis because they are cheaper.

He said that limousine drivers want Gov Udomsak to have the number of taxis serving the airport restricted to the 30 taxis that are currently allowed in. The protestors disbanded after PIA Deputy General Manager Chan Chiamcharoen said that he would inform the PIA Director immediately of their complaints, and that the moves to improve taxi service would not go ahead until all the affected parties had discussed their problems with the Governor.


Phuket Gazette

Friday, July 22, 2005

Love and Sorrow in the Land of Smiles


Richard Ehrlich Masterpiece

A classic message of love and sorrow posted today in The Pattaya Mail.

*****************************

Dear Hillary,

You have probably heard this hundreds of times and may be able to help me in this problem I have. On my last trip to Thailand (my third this year) I fell in love with a most beautiful girl from a bar and against all the advice given by “old hands” I gave her money to set her up in a house for us both, which had to be in her name as it could not be done in mine, which I found out beforehand. We got along so well, I could not believe my luck. She went to a language school so that we could talk together (I am hopeless with languages, always have been). I had to do everything quickly as I was only here for three weeks.

She contacted me every day by email and told me that she was setting up the house just for us, and I was just so happy. My work told me the good news that they wanted me to go to Singapore for a quick trip, so I thought I would I would quickly fly up to Thailand and surprise her. The surprise was all mine when I found out that she was living there with some German guy and had been for some time! Should I ask her to return the money? I feel totally cheated and I think it will be some time before I fall in love again, especially with a Thai girl.

Cheated

Dear Cheated,

Just who has cheated who in this sit-com drama? You admit that all the old hands warned you, but you went ahead anyway and all their predictions came true, although I don’t know that you can attach much blame to the German guy - he’s probably paid for the house as well. Petal, would you have done this in your own country? Within three weeks of knowing some girl from the local pub, would you be dragged down to the estate agents where you buy a house, and sign it over to her, while you then disappear, happy in the knowledge that she is “waiting” for you?

You should be thankful that you didn’t buy her two houses, a motorbike for her brother and a couple of buffalo for her father. You can ask her to return the money, but I wouldn’t hold out much hope of ever seeing it. This has been an expensive lesson in love, but it is time that you grew up, I’m afraid.

Hillary

Pattaya Mail Columns

Sky Kingdom Attacked!


Sky Kingdom Tea Pot

Somewhere out in the jungle of Trengganu state in northeastern peninsular Malaysia lies the mythical land of Sky Kingdom, home to a syncretic religion which aims to fuse the dominant religion, Islam, with all other world's religions from Buddhism to Judaism. This doesn't set very well with some of the fundamentalist Islamic local residents, who demand obedience to the ruling paradym. And so they recently attacked Sky Kingdom and tried to destroy its trademark tea pot, though little damage was recorded as the whimsical sculpture is made of concrete.

Car bombs anyone?

Malaysia 'teapot cult' attacked
BBC News
July 18, 2005


The large teapot dominates Ayah Pin's Sky Kingdom. Arsonists have attacked the base of a small inter-faith sect in Malaysia called the Sky Kingdom.
The sect is noted for building a giant teapot to symbolize its belief in the healing purity of water, and is accused of luring Muslims away from Islam.

A lawyer for the sect, Haris Mohamad Ibrahim, said that about 30 armed men dressed in Arab robes had attacked the commune with Molotov cocktails. No-one was injured in the attack, which caused a small fire.

"The roof of the teapot structure is... slightly charred, but since it is made of concrete, the damage is not extensive," firefighter Ahmad Fakarudin told Reuters news agency.

The sect - based in the strongly Muslim state of Terengganu - claims to promote harmony between religious groups. Its leader, Ayah Pin, says he is the saviour of the world. He has attracted believers from many different religious groups with his message of love and tolerance. He claims to allow his followers to be members of any faith, including Islam.


Read the Rest at BBC News

Transitions Abroad Travel Writing Site


Papua New Guinea by Carl Parkes

I've been searching out travel writing websites and blogs for over a decade, and have witnessed dozens of decent efforts to help out prospective travel writers possibly make a living in this perilous craft. I'm not just talking about general writing sites, but those specifically oriented to the craft of travel writing. The results have not been very pretty, to tell the truth. Too much of a scattershot approach or, quite often, an obvious conflict of interest where the author of the travel writing website or blog is also in the business of promoting their books or lectures about the profession. And the whole industry is surprisingly incestuous.

A few days ago, Tim Leffel launched a travel writers resource website for Transitions Abroad that finally puts together nearly every possible helpful angle any travel writer could hope for, and provides enough links to keep everyone busy for months and months. This website is a work of art, and all it needs now is an ongoing blog to keep everyone coming back on a daily basis.

Tim?

P.S. And did I mention that Transitions Abroad is the world's most useful publication for world travelers, volunteers, and anyone who wishes to work overseas?

Transitions Abroad Travel Writers Website

Royalty Gambling in Cambodia?


Map of Siam

Thailand is one of those countries with several centuries of royal traditions and royal families, where royal titles are passed down to sons and daughters, resulting in thousands and thousands of members of the royal family. Only the top tiers are financially supported by the Thai government, and those further down the ladder must make their own lives, but it's always amusing when somebody with a nationally recognized royal title finds herself arrested for illegally entering Cambodia to gamble at the casinos in Poipet. Hilarity ensues.

Princess fined for unauthorised border crossing
The Nation
Bangkok
Jul 22 , 2005


HSH Princess Bhanuma Yugala, daughter of the late Prince Bhanubhandu Yugala and Mom Chailai Yugala, was arrested for crossing the border to Cambodia without travelling documents, Aranyaprathet immigration police said yesterday.

The Aranyaprathet immigration police yesterday detained a lady identified on her identity card as HSH Princess Bhanuma Yugala for crossing the border without documents, said Police Lt-Colonel Nirut Ruangchintana, chief of the immigration checkpoint.

Bhanuma told police that she crossed the border ten days ago to gamble at a casino complex in Poi Pet. An agent at a restaurant in a border market charged her Bt1,500 to take her to the casino complex.

Police fined Bhanuma Bt1,600 for illegally crossing the border. She had earlier said she did not have any money left to pay the fine because she was robbed of Bt100,000 in Cambodia. Later she told police that her mother had transferred the money to her account. Police took her to withdraw Bt5,000 from an ATM machine in the border market. She refused to say who the agent was who took her to Poi Pet but said that she did not pass through the Aranyaprathet immigration checkpoint.

She attempted to negotiate with police, saying that if they let her go to Poi Pet, she would tell them about the agent. Police said they could not allow that.

Nirut said police did not believe that Bhanuma was robbed of Bt100,000 because she refused to give details about the robbery and she also contradicted her own statements by indicating that she did not have money that could have been stolen. After paying the fine, Bhanuma refused to leave the investigation room and asked police to let her cross the border to gamble at Poi Pet.

When police refused, she left to go to the border market and refused to go back to Bangkok. Police officers had been assigned to keep a watch on her. Bhanuma, who operates a restaurant and a guesthouse in Bangkok, is the sixth heiress of Prince Bhanubhandu and Mom Chailai. Her mother runs two jewellery shops at The Emporium shopping mall.


The Nation Link

Thursday, July 21, 2005

The Voyages of Dick Headley


Dick Headley Desktop

Bangkok-based traveler and humorist relates his sailing adventures in the Caribbean and moans the loss of comments over at MangoSauce. Rumor has it that Dick will meet up with Phil tonight over in Soi Cowboy, with possible appearance by Richard and other Bangkok bloggers of the more disreputable type. Sounds like a great night out. Here's a sample of the writings of Dick Headley:

Look, judging by some of the e-mail I get I know some of you are barely hangıng on by a thread. Don't despair. It won't be long til the Annual Headley Convention so try to hang on till then. Sir Richard has kindly offered us the run of his island so it should be a good one. I'll be printing up some tickets but in the meantime just try not to worry about things. It's pointless. Lıke tryıng to fıgure out why Chinks eat quıckly or Bulgarıa smells of beef fat. You'll just get stressed out. Then you'll start drinking too much rum and all your organs will start to rot. Pretty soon you will be saying, oh why did I not listen to Dick. Let's be honest, nobody needs a liver stone.

Talking of Oliver Stone I see he's just got nicked for driving under the influence. Probably that Alexander the Gay business is weighing on his mind. It was a big flop but Oliver does tend to stick his neck out.

Which reminds me, I know a fella in Bangkok who knows Oliver. His name's Alex. He has a bar in Soi Zero (what used to be Buckskin Village years ago when it was just a Klong Tuey slum). Soi Zero needs all the help it can get so if you're in Bangkok round up a bunch of your mates and all go down to New Lucky Luke's and get filthy drunk. Nobody will mind. Anyway Alex knows Oliver Stone quite well. He was in that film 'Alexander' that Oliver made. Come to think of it Oliver should have given the title role to Alex but did he? No he gives it to some wooly-woofter. Alex did make a few cameo appearances fighting elephants and such. One of the highlights of the film in fact was when Alex got his brains bashed out. Great piece of acting. Alex says it only took a couple of hours to film the scene and two days for a team of Thai girls to get the make-up off. Which would have made an interesting bit of cinema in itself.

So Oliver if you're reading this all I can say is best of luck mate. Don't let them get you down. And far be it for me to tell you how to run your life but try not to get too involved with dodgy Frenchmen...


Dick Headley Tonight on Soi Cowboy

Architectural Preservation in Hong Kong


Kom Tong Hall, Hong Kong

Hong Kong has successfully destroyed most of its architectural heritage over the last few decades in the pursuit of progress and enterprise, but a hopeful story was posted today by HK Dave over at Simon's World about a relatively old historic structure recently purchased by the HK government for conversion into a museum. Great background notes about the Stanley Ho family of Macau gambling fame, connections with the British opium cartel, murder by Japanese occupation forces, and ghosts.

Stanley Ho and 36 Girls
Simon's World
HK Dave

An article in today's SCMP relates the story of how Stanley Ho as a 20-year old sheltered from the Japanese invasion in December 1941 in his great-uncle Ho Kom-Tong's residence. Apparently he and a young man from Indonesia sheltered there in the basement - with 36 girls. Said Ho:

Every time we heard the sounds of bombing, the girls would all scream and flock towards the two of us and hold us very tightly. We never took advantage of them, though. It disappoints me whenever I think about it again - none of the girls were pretty.

Stanley Ho of course did alright on the ladies' front, being, amongst many other things, an accomplished dancer, and had four wives. His uncle Ho Kom-Tong, though, outdid him - he had 12 wives, and more than 30 children, most of whom lived with him in the 9,000 square foot house on Caine Road he had built for himself in 1914.

Ho's remarks were made at a ceremony yesterday dedicating the building as a Museum to Sun Yat-Sen. How fitting is it, though, that a Museum dedicated to the Father of Modern China be housed in a luxurious residence built by a compradore of Jardine Matheson, the firm that arguably started the Opium War and started the era of Western Imperialism in China?


Read the Rest

More Insanity from Burma


Aung San Suu Kyi

The contest for most insane, ruthless, and paranoid country in Asia is a close race between North Korea, ruled by the squinting midget, and Burma (Myanmar), ruled by a gang of deranged generals. Today, Burma seizes the crown as the Asia Times reveals that the generals have completely lost their minds, and now are building a new capital way up in the hills to prepare themselves for the imminent American invasion.

Myanmar's generals build their 'Xanadu'
By Larry Jagan


BANGKOK - For months Yangon has been rife with rumors that the country's military rulers were planning to retreat to the hills in central Myanmar for fear of a foreign invasion from the sea.

But according to the blueprints for the new military complex, it is actually going to replace the inland port city of Yangon, with its famed shimmering pagodas, as the country's capital.

"This is typical of [military ruler] Than Shwe's pretensions to be the new Burmese monarch. Like the Burmese kings who ruled before him he is building a new palace-capital for posterity," said Thailand-based senior Myanmar analyst Win Min.

But according to diplomats and government officials in Yangon, the real reason for the relocation inland to Pyinmana, 400 kilometers to the north, is for safety from possible outside intervention.

Myanmar's military rulers have faced ever-tightening international sanctions since 1997, when the US stopped new investments in the country. On Tuesday, the sanctions were renewed for another year when the US Senate voted overwhelmingly in favor of this action.

The military's headquarters, government ministries and the new parliament are all scheduled to be moved to the new inland location - many people in Myanmar are already calling it "escape city" - within the next 12 months.

"It's one of the biggest constructions I have ever seen," a Western diplomat in Yangon told Inter Press Service (IPS), referring to the new complex on an area measuring 10 square kilometers.

Mansions for the senior generals, government offices and national headquarters for the country's ethnic groups are being built. The national headquarters is to be 30 meters high, according to the architectural plans.


Read the Rest

Page Six Outs Celebs


Celebs on Parade

Good ole' Page Six in the New York Post has come up with some real insight into a dozen Hollywood movie stars, and it's a hoot.

JUNKETEERING journalists are widely regarded as sycophants who write fluffy prose about movie stars in exchange for access and free travel. It's too bad they don't share their true, warts-and-all impressions of Hollywood A-listers. Two veteran, New York-based junketeers have confided their real feelings to PAGE SIX — and their appraisals aren't pretty:

* Tom Cruise has only two ways of expressing himself: He either wields a "dead-serious expression," like Ben Stiller's "Blue Steel" stare in "Zoolander," or he just "laughs and laughs inexplicably," flashing his million-dollar choppers. "It's disturbing. You don't know what he's laughing about."

* Brad Pitt, up close, lives up to his last name. "He has pockmarks the size of the La Brea Tar Pits and his teeth are yellow and cigarette-stained."

* Jennifer Lopez is "gorgeous, but totally business-like, terrible. There was nothing real about it." Says one journo, "I was the only one who dared ask her something about Marc Anthony. She responded with a non-answer, but her Miramax publicist muscled me after it. I said, 'See you later,' and the publicist said, 'I doubt it.' "

* When he doesn't like a question, the Dalai Lama-loving Richard Gere has perfected "the silent treatment."

Additionally, the Brazilian celebrity magazine Contigo excavated these junketeers' comments about other stars:

* Harrison Ford "proves why his bad temper is so well-known," says one writer. "When I mentioned the word 'charisma,' and asked him why he's so in demand to play heroes on screen, he cut me off, saying, 'If you want to talk about charisma, go find Ricky Martin.' I was speechless after that."

* Catherine Zeta-Jones is "astonishingly beautiful, no arguing that. But intellectually, she's weak. When she doesn't understand a question, which isn't rare, she tries to make up anything by way of a response. The worst part is when she makes jokes, she's the only one who laughs. A total embarrassment."

* Andy Garcia is "a great disappointment. I thought he would be charming and interesting. But at the 'Ocean's Eleven' junket, I met a plain man in an ugly jacket who was fat and slung into a chair."

* Angelina Jolie, an exception to the rule, is "one of the most fun celebrities to interview. She's always in jeans and without make-up."


Page Six Gossip Fix

L. Ron Hubbard and Scientology


L. Ron Hubbard

Immediately after graduation from UCSB, I packed my bags for three months vagabonding in Europe, staying in youth hostels, getting around the continent with a youth railpass, and living largely on cheese and Swiss chocolate. Then returned home to Riverside and worked construction out in Palm Springs, before saving enough cash to leave home and head to Salt Lake City. My goad in life: be a ski bum.

I found a place to live in a semi-commune situation just off campus from University of Utah, and soon had a relationship with the kooky lady who ran the place. She was a Scientologist and offered to cover my tuition for the introductory course at their headquarters downtown. I survived the six week course, but being a former Mormon, I'm quite skeptical of all organized religions, especially those that use tin cans to clear out your past incarnations. The whole thing seems like cheap psycho babble, though the chicks were hot and sex talk was always the order of the day.

Slate ran a decent background article a few days ago about the founder of L. Ron Hubbard, and I'd recommend the short story to anyone curious about this cultural phenomena that has swept up a large number of Hollywood movie stars.

Spiritual leader or sci-fi con artist?
Slate
July 15, 2005


Our summer of Tom Cruise's madness and Katie Holmes' creepy path toward zombie bridedom has been a useful reminder of how truly strange Scientology is. By now those interested in the Cruise-Holmes saga may be passingly familiar with the church's creation myth, in which an evil, intergalactic warlord named Xenu kidnaps billions of alien life forms, chains them near Earth's volcanoes, and blows them up with nuclear weapons. Strange as Scientology's pseudo-theology may be, though, it's not as entertaining as the life story of the church's founder, L. Ron Hubbard.


Slate Biography of L. Ron Hubbard

Thailand on Two Wheels


Sukhothai Loy Krathong by Carl Parkes

The Bangkok Post has a weekly travel section on Thursdays called "Horizons," which is mostly a collection of press releases sent into the paper and slightly edited by some overworked intern. Boring, boring, boring. Fortunately, a few months ago the editors agreed to publish a series of short stories by Lloyd Sullivan, who has been driving his motorcycle around the country, exploring some of the more distant and tempting locales. It's the best thing going in Horizons, though I've contacted Lloyd and he doesn't have a permanent repository for his articles. No website, no blog, so you need to check Horizons every Thursday if only to catch up with the adventures of Lloyd.

Today, a funny observation about a typically weird Thai encounter.

Home stretch
The solo rider bids adieu to the Gulf and Andaman coasts and prepares for the North
Lloyd Sullivan
Bangkok Post Horizons


I pulled up to the curb outside a little restaurant in Hua Hin and killed the engine. I took off my helmet and gloves and put them on the seat, ran my fingers through my wet hair to make myself more presentable and went inside.

There were two empty tables in the place and I sat down at one of them facing away from the street into the kitchen. A girl was standing in the middle of the floor wearing blue denims and a red T-shirt. She had some bills wrapped around her right index finger. A server. I ordered a bowl of soup from her.

She didn't relay the order to the kitchen in the back, but to a woman at the entrance where I now saw the distinctive aluminium soup cart. Okay, I guess I could have placed the order myself when I came in.

As I was checking out the glass-fronted beer case from my table, the girl in red sat down opposite me and gazed out into the street. I asked her if they had a small bottle of Singha beer. She actually shrugged. Well, I was pretty sure I could see a few in the cooler so I ordered one from her. I said, "kaw bia sing khuat lek noi krap." Which is a very polite way to go about it.

She remained sitting, but turned around and placed the order with a guy back in the kitchen. I watched him come out of the kitchen, go to the refrigerator, take out a bottle, pop the cap, place it in an insulating sleeve of styrofoam and bring it to me. The girl sat through the whole thing.

I said to her, in effect, as long as youre sitting here do you want to have lunch with me? It was a joke, one of my first in Thai as I recall, and it fell exceptionally flat. She didn't see the humour. In fact, I think she was slightly alarmed. "Poot len," I assured her. Just kidding.

Where'd they get this chick? I asked myself. If the food in this place was as bad as the help I could be in trouble.

I looked around. There were people at three other tables in the restaurant, eating and chatting, nobody needing anything at the moment. Even so this server struck me as being about as indolent as anybody I'd ever come across. And none too friendly, either.

In another minute the guy who'd brought me the beer came out of the kitchen carrying two plastic sacks full of take-out dinners and put them on the table. The girl in red stood up, paid the guy the exact amount from the money wrapped around her finger and left.

It seems I'd been ordering my lunch from another customer.

Read the Rest

Wednesday, July 20, 2005

Philippines Default?


Manila Building Collapse 2004

The always amazing Torn of Torn and Frayed comments today about the possible default of the Philippines and paints a pretty depressing portrait of a nation in despair.

The Philippines: “living on borrowed time

If you really want to get depressed and angry at the Philippine politicians behind the current crisis, have a look at “Mess in Manila” in this week’s Economist (subscription link).

Articles in the international media on the Philippine political scene are typically full of words like “vibrant”, “colourful”, “exuberant democratic process” and similar clichés so beloved of foreign correspondents.

“Mess in Manila” is different because it is from the finance and economics pages. You can tell it is from the financial pages because words like “downgrade”, “deficit” and “capital flight” liberally sprinkle the page. Here’s an example of the cheery news you may find there:

“Default”, says Agost Benard of S&P, is “the question on everyone's mind”.
For someone from one of the main credit-rating agencies to speak so bleakly is very worrying. Last week, S&P and the other two main ratings agencies, Fitch and Moody’s, downgraded their outlook for the Philippines’ sovereign (i.e., government) debt from “stable” to “negative”. This could be the first step on a very rocky road. In terms of its debt to GDP ratio, the Philippines is the world’s largest sovereign debtor (see chart below). Scarily, half of that debt is denominated in foreign currency.


Torn and Frayed on Philippines Economic Collapse

Best of Thai-Blogs


Eastern and Oriental Advertisement

Richard at Thai-Blogs has recently put together a "best of" the countless articles posted on his blog, and there's enough great writing here to keep everyone busy for several months. For a starter, be sure to read his post about finding a job teaching English in Thailand -- excellent tips from a real pro.

Thai-Blogs Highlights

Sunday, July 17, 2005

Weekly News from Pattaya Today


Sleepy Days in Pattaya

Pattaya has two weekly newspapers -- Pattaya Mail and Pattaya Today -- and both have websites filled with the standard bizarre stories coming from the Land of Smiles. I don't think I've mentioned Pattaya Today before, but I'd like to quote a page from the paper, if only to illustrate the strange world of farang culture in Thailand. Do check the tiny photos provided with each story.

Another jumping farang ends it all
No money, no hope and poor health

Volunteers of the Sawang- boriboon foundation were quick off the mark after reports were received that a farang had jumped to his doom from the Naranya Mansion which is close to the Memorial Hospital. The corpse was identified as belonging to Mr Andrew Anderson, aged 57, who was wearing a vest and short pants which were covered in gore.

Attending doctors said that Mr Anderson had some kind of drugs in his body but a more detailed forensic analysis was required. Other renters at the “mansion” said that the deceased guy had often complained about his health, saying that he had serious heart problems which long spells in hospital had not managed to improve. He had also confided to several people that he had run out of money and could see no future for himself.
------------------------------------

Man steals CD to save face

Police lieutenant Somchai Mongkonwon was called to the TH shop on the South Pattaya Road after a man stole a CD from a rental shop. He rushed out of the premises carrying his prize, worth 120 baht, but was overwhelmed by indignant locals and passersby who heard the commotion and made a citizens’ arrest.

He explained at the police station that he only had 200 baht on his person and had many things to buy. For instance, his wife wanted some chicken to eat and he felt sympathy for her as she was pregnant. His sister had demanded he bring home a movie. Faced with these demands and a limited budget, Mr Brontam Inporn, the accused guy, explained that the only solution open to him was plain theft.
------------------------------------------

Tour guide attacked in grab raid
One criminal lived in derelict house

Three arch criminals robbed Mr Vilagon Joerngriratkul, aged 34, who is a tour guide for Chinese groups visiting Pattaya. His job with the Nan Chian Company is to pack them onto tour buses and make sure they all get off and on together without holding up the traffic too long on Beach Road.The three criminals approached Mr Vilagon as he was standing on his own on Second Road. One asked to borrow his pen and, when Mr Vilagon said he did not have one, the villain became nasty.

But this was only to distract him whilst the remaining thieves, a husband and wife team, stole his gold necklace, bangle, mobile phone and 3,000 baht in cash. Once the nefarious deed was accomplished, the trio made their escape in the confusion. Police spoke to several witnesses, one of whom said he believed that one of the gang lived in a derelict dwelling in soi 5. Police visited there and arrested 25 year old Torn Sunthorn who had his own Aladdin’s cave of stolen stuff. The husband and wife team are still on the run.
-----------------------------------

Foreigners argue over same girlfriend
Canadian lover badly thumped

Police were called to a bar in Soi Diana Inn after a savage attack with a broken beer bottle left one man quite poorly. Canadian Mr Mark Gibson, aged 39, was sitting in a bar with his newly acquired girl friend when an unpleasant fellow, identified only as Mr Jack, came up and pointed that that this particular female belonged to him. In accordance with Darwinian theory, a fight broke out which left Mr Mark with several wounds to his face and body which needed treatment in hospital. Police major Prateep Tongdee said that Mr Jack and the controversial lady had both run away and were currently being sought to explain their behaviour.
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Child prostitution racket busted
Volunteer tourist police set a trap

Having heard that a woman was running an illegal child prostitution business from the area of the Royal Garden plaza, tourist police set up a sting operation. Three farang volunteer tourist policemen were given specially marked money to pay Miss Gai Petchupon, aged 25, for the sexual services of girls as young as 11 and 13. A meeting was set up at the Kiss restaurant on Second Road and the money handed over, at which point regular officers made an arrest.

Miss Gai initially denied she was running a racket, saying only that she was helping the girls achieve their aim of finding rich foreigners to entertain. She can tell that to the judge in due course. The young girls were taken to the family association in order to find out how they may best be assisted. National tourist police chief, Panya Mamen, has stated that he wants the problem of child prostitution in Pattaya to be swept away and not swept under the carpet.


Pattaya Today on Another Week in Paradise

Tuesday, July 12, 2005

Funeral Gambling in Thailand


Cats Don't Gamble

Here's a small, odd factoid about Thailand that is news to me. Everyone knows that the Thai people love to gamble, but that's a common trait across Asia, probably due to the dominance of the Chinese, who have always been born gamblers. So the Thais have their lottery, but no legalized gambling or casinos, but card games are going on all over town at all times day and night. But I never realized that card games are now a part of funerals in the Issan. An interesting letter today in The Bangkok Post.

No respect for the dead; rid villages of gamblers

In my Isan village, neighbouring villages and no doubt throughout Isan, when a villager dies, there is a well-rehearsed programme of events. Monks arrive within minutes, followed almost immediately by the arrival of the canvas shelters, tables, chairs, crockery and cutlery. Work crews are assembled to buy food and drink, to cook, to serve and to wash the dishes.

At nightfall, the mourners return to their homes and the gamblers arrive. These are up to 100 strong and come from surrounding villages, and also include professional gamblers from out of town. They generally drink, party and play "hi-low" until dawn, with large amounts of money changing hands.

They return again, night after night until the cremation. Most have no association whatsoever with the deceased or their family. Their constant chatter and laughing is a disturbance to the local residents and the bereaved.

This shows a total lack of respect for the deceased, but seemingly they don't care. The police are notified of the death but turn a blind eye to the gambling, no doubt receiving a substantial payoff.

These gamblers search out deaths in their community, and there are not many evenings when they cannot gamble and party. Disrespectful or not, this is professional organised gambling and the law against it should be fully enforced.
ISAN NICK

Monday, July 11, 2005

Indonesia Still Mad at the Dutch?


Barong Dancer by Carl Parkes

The almost incomprehensible visa situation in Indonesia is soon due for another curious turn. For several decades, almost all Western and Asian tourists were welcome to arrive at most international gateways and were then given a complimentary two-month visa on arrival. The situation was pretty loose, and nobody was skimming off any money, and it sure helped keep tourism alive, and gave visitors enough time to explore the more remote regions of the vast archipelago.

Then, a few years ago the government decided to change the visa policies, and list of approved guests was sharply reduced and almost everyone was required to either pay $25 for a visa on arrival, or required to obtain a visa in advance in their home country. The visa was reduced from two months to one -- there goes tourism in Sulawesi and Lake Toba.

The list of approved countries eligible for the visa-on-arrival was very limited and confusion broke out as hundreds of visitors arrived in Bali, only to discover they needed to return home and pick up a regular visa. It was a mess, the airports were crowded, and god only knows where that $25 was going......

Yesterday, the Indonesian government finally decided to expand the number of approved countries for visa-on-arrival, but curiously left out Holland and Sweden. Are the Indonesians still made at Dutch behavior during the colonial days? And mad at the Swedes for providing political refugee status for leaders of the Free Aceh movement?

I can't think of any other reason.

(7/11/2005) As reported on balidiscovery.com, [ Changes in Visa Policy on August 1, 2005] the government will add 14 more countries on August 1, 2005, to the list of those eligible to purchase a visa on arrival (VOA) at an Indonesian gateway.

Where's Sweden and Holland?

Two noticeable exceptions to the list of a total of 35 countries able to arrange a visa-on-arrival are Sweden and the Netherlands. Although reportedly lobbied to be included on the list by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism, the Government apparently decided leave these two important source countries for Indonesian tourists off the list.

Not pleased with the political cold shoulder being given to Sweden and Holland, Satriyanto Tirtawisata, President Director of the major Indonesian tour operator Panorama Tours expressed his disappointment, saying: "In fact, there's a potential for Dutch arrivals to Indonesia to increase every year. I am surprised why the government has crossed these two countries (Holland and Sweden) off the list for VOA. Is it possible that merely for political considerations a decisions been made to make business and tourism suffer?"

Speaking to the Indonesian-language Bali Post, Satriyanto explained that the Dutch are a long-standing traditional market for Indonesian tourism who stay in country for extended periods with relatively high levels of per diem spending. He lamented that the Government has seen fit to isolate itself from this market.

Meanwhile, Thamrin B. Bachri, the Deputy Minister for Capacity Building and International Cooperation from the Ministry of Culture and Tourism did not want to comments on why Sweden and Holland were eliminated from the VOA list, suggesting that question be directed to the Government.

Local tourism circles and the press have hinted that Holland is being barred for historical reasons and ill-will felt by certain individuals in the inner circle of Cabinet Ministers and Presidential Advisors towards the Dutch. Meanwhile, Sweden has reportedly been eliminated from the list as a result of the political sanctuary that country offers to leaders of the Aceh Independence Movement (GAM).


Bali Discovery

Friday, July 08, 2005

Pattaya Love or Disaster


The Relationship Column in Pattaya Mail

The Pattaya Mail is a weekly newspaper with plentiful columnists, some Thai and some Farang, with opinions, photos, and coverage about the leading beach resort destinations near Bangkok. They also have an online website with most of their stuff, and they are always more than happy to post scandal photos (like all Thai media), and even a personal (relationship) section for love-lost singles in the Land of Smiles. Actually, the Hillary column is written by the Good Doctor himself, but please don't tell him I told you about his secret after the many years ago he revealed himself to me in the Royal Cliff Hotel.

No, not that way. Sheesh.

Dear Hillary,

I caught my boss’s wife out with some of her friends at a boys club bar. They were drinking and having a great time it seemed. I am kicking myself that I didn’t take some photographs, but do you think I should tell her husband, my boss, about this even without the hard evidence?

The Detective

Dear Detective,

It sounds to me more like you are a blackmailer, rather than a detective, my Petal. A few questions from Hillary first: to begin with, why were you there at the boy’s club? Are you hiding something too? If you enjoy your job, and the monthly salary, I would forget about being Vinnie Calvino or Mickey Spillane, and just remember that you saw nothing, that’s a good boy


Heart to Heart with Hillary from Pattaya Mail with the Good Doctor

Major Scandal in Pattaya


20 Years to Life

It doesn't look very good for Richard, who refuses to pay his bathroom charge in Pattaya and has been hauled in by the noble Pattaya police to face charges of cheating the bathroom attendant out of 3 baht. That's about 8 cents.

British visitor Richard Pitcher, 39, was attacked by two toilet attendants when he declined to pay for using the facilities.

Pitcher said he had been drinking in the JB Beer Bar in South Pattaya and went to use the restroom. Two men had asked for 5 baht for toilet service but he refused because he had already spent many hundreds of baht drinking in the bar.

Richard Pitcher (background) was beaten for refusing to pay a toilet charge.

The attendants reduced their demand and asked for 3 baht. Pitcher told them that he had lived in Thailand for eight years, and didn’t see why he should pay for the toilet service. Both men then attacked him. Police arriving at the scene arrested the aggressive urinal attendants, named as Kitisak Prom-Orn, 22, and Kraisorn Saengsakul, 25

Pagan and Luang Prabang


Burmese Boy with tattoo

I'm not sure how many readers of this blog have visited both Pagan (Bagan) in central Burma, and Luang Prabang in Laos, but they are obviously two very different destinations. LP has largely been left alone by the government, but the Burmese government has decided to get very aggressive about restoration projects. For the record, I resist and condemn all restoration projects on old monuments, and believe they should all be allowed to slowly go back to dust. New monuments will always be created, and all restoration projects ruin the very goal they seek to preserve.

BurmaÂ’s ancient capital of Pagan is shaping up to be an eyesore while the former Lao royal capital of Luang Prabang strives to preserve its ancient monuments.

What a contrast between two ancient capitals, both redolent of distinct, historic cultures. One, BurmaÂ’s former capital Pagan, is moving towards what promises to be an ugly future motivated more by commercial interests than a desire to preserve the past; the other, LaosÂ’s old royal capital of Luang Prabang, is trying to keep as much as possible of its traditional appeal intact.

The main difference in approach is that while the Lao Government has fully embraced the UN cultural agency UNESCOÂ’s active guardianship of Luang Prabang as a World Heritage Site, the Rangoon generals seem to have eschewed such a move over Pagan. This despite the fact that Pagan dates back 1,000 years and is home to more than 2,000 stunning ancient monuments.

Burma’s decision makers have their own ideas of what to do with the beautiful former capital. The most recent addition to the magnificent site is a glass and concrete viewing tower which, at just over 60m, is now the ancient city’s second tallest structure. The official line is that by offering tourists a panoramic view without the need to clamber up the already crumbling walls of nearby temples, the Nanmyint (royal tower) will actually help preserve Pagan’s historic monuments. The fact that the tower, which opened on April 10, features a restaurant, meeting rooms and offices, and construction of a chalet–style resort is underway at the tower’s base, however, suggest more commercial motives.

The tower is really just the latest in a long line of developments in Pagan that have provoked outrage from international groups concerned about the siteÂ’s preservation. Other controversial projects include the 18-hole Bagan Golf Resort, which opened to the public in 1999, mere putting distance from the heart of the archaeological zone. In addition, a highway, constructed in the mid-1990s, cuts right through the site. While the generals who run the country might be rubbing their hands at the prospect of all those tourist dollars rolling in, the experts are pulling their hair out.

Irrawaddy Link

Great News: No More Opium in Laos


The King of Laos

Good news today from the nation of Laos: Opium is gone, so smokers should head west to Pakistan or Afghanistan or try your local cab driver in Bangkok. In the bad news department, ethnic minorities up in the Laotian hills have taken a hit.

Drive for opium-free Laos brings disaster to hill tribes

After about 200 years of opium poppy cultivation, the Laotian government last month declared their country "opium-free", winning acclaim from international drug suppression agencies for a major victory in the war on drugs.

The United Nations drug and crime control agency UNODC confirmed a drastic poppy reduction of 73 per cent during the past five years in their most recent opium survey, ending the country's reputation as the world's third-largest producer.

But while many benefits have come from the initiative to tackle the illicit trade, not least Laos' relations with the West, others suggest the eradication of the opium crop has brought new problems to the most vulnerable parts of the population.

Academics, researchers and non-governmental organisations claim that rapid opium repression has been a disaster for the hill-tribe communities and the opium shortage has led to a far worse drug epidemic. The rush to wipe out opium poppy fields in line with a 2005 deadline was spearheaded by the United States and Europe. An estimated 65,000 hill-tribe people have been displaced from the mountains of northern Laos, where the opium poppy thrives, as part of the eradication programme.

UN development consultant Dr Charles Alton said the mass relocation has come at a cost to the fragile communities. "Hill-tribe people moving to new villages not only lack sufficient rice, but they face fresh diseases - malaria, gastro-intestinal problems, and parasites," he said.

Link

Thailand Hates Ethnic Minorities


Hmong Backpackers hit Khao San

Thailand is a country comprised of ethnic Thais and Chinese who have melded into one of the more harmonious nations in Southeast Asia, but the current residents and government have a problem with outsiders such as the famed hilltribe groups of northern Thailand, or any other foreign national who attempts to crash their borders and bring in...I don't know, lice?

The Hmong are a group of people who have long lived in the region, mostly up in the hills in simple villages, very poor, known for their cultivation of opium, etc. And the Hmong of Burma and Laos sometimes move down the mountain to Thailand, to seek employment and a better way of life.

Wo dude. The Thai government can't figure out how to manage their water resourses despite the deluge that rains down every year from June to November, but they seem to know what to do with all these pesky ethnic minorities, from Burma, Laos, and southern China. Oh, southern China just happens to be the place where a large majority of Thais came from in the first place.

Thailand: get rid of those impoverished tribes. The Thai government has never, never given citizen rights to the hilltribe people in northern Thailand, who have lived on the land for over 200 years, so no rights to land ownership, no rights to vote, always the outsider and the refugee. The Thai government now wants to truck recent Hmong immgrants back to Laos. What? No trucks? Mai Pen Rai. Just evict them and leave them on the side of the road.

Hmong Refugee Slide Show from BBC

Islamic Terror in Banda Aceh


Islam Indonesia

Northern Sumatra has a tsunami of immense proportions and over 200,000 people die in the horrific wave. The world donates over 10B in aid. So what do the Islamic terrorists do as thanks? They are killing volunteers who have traveled from all parts of the world in an attempt to help the tsunami victims.

Looks like all NGOs will soon be leaving Sumatra and a great deal of aid will either be delayed or cancelled. Way to go, Islamic murderers, the world will soon retreat and you can provide your own method of aid and justice to the tsunami casualties. What has gone wrong with the religion of Islam? When did it get hijacked by terrorists?


Dutch Aid Worker Shot in Tsunami-hit Aceh
JAKARTA
Reuters

A Dutch woman aid worker was wounded in a shooting incident in Indonesia's tsunami-hit Aceh province, officials told Reuters on Friday. She was the second foreigner shot since large numbers of aid workers came to the province -- torn by a long-running war between the government and Free Aceh Movement (GAM) rebels -- to help its recovery after the Dec. 26 disaster.

Indonesian paramedics assist Dutch woman Marije Mellegers (C) in an ambulance in Medan July 08, 2005. A Dutch woman aid worker was wounded in a shooting incident in Indonesia's tsunami-hit Aceh province, Dutch and U.N. officials told Reuters on Friday.

The shooting was likely to raise fresh questions about security for aid operations in Aceh, where the tsunami left nearly 170,000 people dead or missing and destroyed the homes of another half a million.

Link

Traveler or Travel Writer


Travelers, not Travel Writers, on Parade

OK, I'm posting this message in my wrong forum, and it should be better read in my other blog about the Travails of Travel Writing.........but I've got the image loaded, so I'll just go ahead and send out this warning: most people who travel extensively are not professional travel writers. Nothing personal, but you first need to be a crafty writer with many, many years of experience, and then you can do some travel writing for fun. Not money. Fun.

Do not attempt this at home.

"Good travel writing is done by good writers who travel. It is not enough to have swum through piranha-infested waters to the source of the Amazon. You must be able to write well to convey that experience. When you have learned the craft of writing, you can make a stroll through your own suburban neighborhood seem interesting, even exciting. Good travel writing needs much the same ingredients as any good story -- narrative, drive, characters, dialogue, atmosphere, revelation. Make it personal. Let the reader know how the place and the experience are affecting you.

"Good travel writing is just good writing. It must have literary merit. The most important journey you will make as a travel writer is the journey of a good sentence. Without that, you close encounter with the piranhas is wasted.

"Bad travel writing is done by travelers, often good travelers, who mistakenly believe they can write. There seems to be an awful lot of them about. Their prose is littered with clichés, their sense of narrative timing is inept and their characters, whether themselves or people they encounter, are clumsily portrayed. Too many travel writers seem to believe that the journey 'makes' the story. It doesn't. In the end, anyone can travel to Timbuktu, but only a few people will write about the journey well."

--Stanley Stewart, in Don George's Travel Writing (2005)

Rolf Potts and Stanley Stewart and Don George

Islamic Terror in Southern Thailand


Bangkok Flood

As bad as the Islamic terrorism of yesterday in London, how many people around the world realize that almost 700 people have been murdered over the last two years in southern Thailand, by Islamic radicals who demand independance from Thailand? Today, a noteworthy letter in The Bangkok Post.

Why this violence against teachers?

Call me naive, many do, but I am sitting down here in Songkhla utterly mystified. I can't for the life of me (in more ways than one) fathom why so-called "separatist insurgents" in Thailand's troubled South, embarked upon and have sustained their appalling policy of violent attacks against teaching staff and schools.

I just cannot understand what it is they hope to achieve by the heartless gunning down of those people best equipped and trained to pass on their message to both present and future generations. I am assuming here, perhaps optimistically, that the policy has been thought through at all.

The instigators of this detestable wave of violence are, in many cases it appears, teachers themselves; allegedly religious instructors hiding cynically behind an opiate aegis of Holy Sanction might be another way to describe them.

If these learned men do indeed hold a manifesto which directs and somehow explains the reasoning behind their violent anti-teacher actions, I for one have never read it.

And I'd genuinely like to know why, by mere fact of my occupation, I should be considered fair game for a mortal attack by any of your legion of motorcycle borne, yaba-addicted teenage stooges. Therefore, I would like to take this opportunity to ask these supposed leaders and learned men to offer, via email to under a pseudonym if they like, any cogent reason for their heinous crimes. If the stated rationale is substantial enough to convince, I may even offer myself up for martyrdom for the cause, but if it's not, please desist. I know resistance to oppression gives birth to extreme measures _ but executing teachers? Come on!

FALCON RANDWICK
Teacher in Songkhla

Thursday, July 07, 2005

Message from Manila


Beautiful Harvest

There's a message going around the Filipino blog world today, which seems to really struck a chord with the average, hard-working, middle-class Filipino, who is angry both at poor majority who do not pay taxes, and the wealthy elite who also do not pay taxes through corruption and outright theft. About half the posting is in Filipino, but the main article has been translated into English and there some 80 comments.

As long as there is no radical change, the Philippines will continue to be useless and the majority of Filipinos will continue to become stupid.

With all the Filipinos migrating to other countries, the time will come when only a minority of the Filipino population will have brains. Talented Filipinos will have gone by then. They’re just too frustrated and depressed by what they’re seeing.

In a few years I’ll be leaving the Philippines too. I have no plans of raising a family in a country that doesn’t value the contributions of those who are really keeping it alive. If my future child had to live here, poor kid!

To be honest, I’m broken hearted. I did love this country. I kept on defending it no matter how rotten it was. I’ve already reached other lands, but I chose to come back. But now, I’ve had enough. I give up. I’m a waste in this country. My hopes are simple. I just want to live quietly and peacefully. I want to be able to praise the Philippines. But there’s just nothing. This country is doomed to stay in the pits.

I know there are still plenty who hope and believe in change. Good luck and God bless! I hope you’re right and I’m wrong.


Read the Rest

Movie Extras Wanted on Samui


Pirates of Samui

If you happen to be down in Samui over the next few weeks, you might want to contact the casting director at his email listed below, and volunteer to be an extra in an upcoming Hollywood movie.

I'm casting Western extras to be in our Hollywood production of Blackbeard, to start shooting in mid July 2005 to mid Sept in Surat and Kahnom.

Benefits include 1,500 baht/day, transportation from Samui to and from the set, drinks and meals, and of course all the intangibles related to being involved in the pirate movie.

Casting will begin on Samui this coming Monday, July 4th at an office yet to be determined.

If you are interested please email or call for more info. Also, feel free to forward this to other people in Samui who may be interested.

Cheers,

Greg Eismin
Casting, Blackbeard

Email: bbsamui@gmail.com
Tel: 04 733 4383

An Indonesian Marriage


Balinese Dancer

The son of Indonesia's current president (SBY or Susilo) will soon be getting married to his girlfriend, and after the ceremony in Jakarta, they have invited 2000 of their closest friends up to the Bogor Palace for a weekend of festivities. You'd really think the presidential family would be a little more concerned about such a lavish wedding in a country set with so many problems.

Guess not.

PREPARATIONS have been under way for days: Bogor Palace has been scrubbed, mountains of food have been prepared for 2000 guests and the various ranks of parking privileges - from VVIP down - allocated.

Today, the eldest son of Indonesian President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono, infantry lieutenant Agus Harymurti Yudhoyono, will exchange vows with one-time covergirl Annisa Larasati Pohan at her parents' house in Jakarta. Tomorrow the celebrations will continue at the flower-decked palace south of the city.

Mindful of underclass resentment of lavish spending by Indonesia's super-rich, Dr Yudhoyono's staff have played down the size and splendour of the celebrations.


Read the Rest

Wednesday, July 06, 2005

The Destruction of Boracay


Philippines Tourism Ad

I'm not sure how many readers of this blog have been to Boracay in the Philippines, but it looks like one of Southeast Asia' most beautiful island is going down the tubes, with relentless development. A discussion over at Lonely Planet below.

Boracay - what a shame

I have just become aware of a very sad situation in Boracay. Hopefully someone can give me some feedback about this. I recently visited Punta Bunga beach (at the northern end of Boracay, site earmarked for Shangri-La development) and was driven away by guards armed with AK47's. Looking for a quiet spot to spend the day away from the crowds on White Beach, I proceeded to Panoly Beach, where I was also driven away by armed guards! The thing is, I did a bit of research and was told by several sources that the beach itself cannot actually be bought, only the land adjacent to it, behind the coconut trees. What then gives these people the right to chase tourists away? Apparantly the beach/shoreline area is government/marine land, and anyone should be free to go there. Even if I am wrong, and they have somehow managed to buy those beaches, what possible harm could there be in allowing people to visit them? The Shangri-La construction hasn't even started yet! These greedy, selfish people are going to destroy those beautiful beaches soon enough by building concrete monstosities on them. Why not allow people to enjoy those places while they still can? Punta Bunga beach is home to a colony of endangered fruit bats, and is also nesting site for rare turtles, although not for much longer. Does anyone know what's going on, or where the law stands on this?


Read the Rest